MBO Day 2: Crossing the Gravelly Range

[Note: I skipped ahead and published Day 2 ahead of Day 1]

The Montana Bike Odyssey covers some of the most epic, awe-inspiring, and underrated terrain in Western and Central Montana. One of those regions is the southwest portion of the loop, including the Madison River Valley, Gravelly Range, along the Ruby River corridor, and through Sweetwater Basin to Dillon, MT.

Some of this was familiar territory. In 2018 I completed a 113-mile route through the Gravelly Range – since then, memories of the scenery and experiences of these mountains lived in the front of my mind.

The climbs through this unforgiving terrain seem to never end, taxing the body in unsuspecting ways. Rising from the valley floor adjacent to the towering Madison Range, the high desert fades into coniferous woodlands and alpine meadows nearing 10,000 feet. A lone, barren tree standing in the vast landscape of low-lying wildflowers and grasses exemplifies the presence of high winds, intense sun, and heavy snowfall that frequents the rugged, exposed landscape.

Luckily, none of these elements were present on my second day of this 1750-mile journey. The cloudy sky and slight breeze make for a comfortable, slightly chilly, climbing pace.

A sharp rattle snapped me out of my trance, drawing my attention to a large rattlesnake just feet away from me. Numerous times I have placed a foot down in a similar spot on the edge of a road – note to self! When I think of the Gravellies, rattlesnakes don’t often come to mind. Grizzly bears, however, very much do.

I crested the first climb near 8600 ft, climbing 3700 ft in 16 miles. The reward for my effort: a long and fast descent switchbacking an open ridge, then dropping into a narrow canyon and along the Ruby River. After 42 miles of climbing since that morning, the 21.5 miles of mostly descending was a nice reprieve.

Crossing over the Ruby River and heading west through Sweetwater Basin was untravelled territory for me. This next climb was much less strenuous, though not without some steep punches.

Rolling through the hills and canyons, this basin felt reminiscent of the high desert lands I am used to in Idaho. Sweetwater Road was vacant of a single motor vehicle—Quiet solitude.

I neared the end of the climb as the sun’s final rays of light shot low across the landscape, illuminating the highland sagebrush. Winds picked up and temperatures dropped. Against the winds of the approaching storm, I continued in the dark.

My push to Dillon was strategic. There was a Bike Camp there with shelter, power, water, and maybe even a hot shower. A sidewind surged, sending my bike and me into loose gravel on a tight corner – no time for checking out now! Stay focused.

A drizzle of rain started and winds picked up even more. Just a few miles to go. I rolled into the Bike Camp and ducked into a covered porch just as the skies opened up into a downpour.